Zainspirowany poczynaniami kolegów z Eye of Madness postanowiłem porzucić na moment malowanie figurek do Flames of War i domalowac pancernik klasy Despoiler z poziomu "gaming-ready" na Gothicomp-ready :)
zastrzegam, że nie jest to skończona praca.
Pokazywanie postów oznaczonych etykietą Malowanie. Pokaż wszystkie posty
Pokazywanie postów oznaczonych etykietą Malowanie. Pokaż wszystkie posty
piątek, 29 kwietnia 2011
BFG WIP - "Harbringer of Doom" - Despoiler Class
Zainspirowany poczynaniami kolegów z Eye of Madness postanowiłem porzucić na moment malowanie figurek do Flames of War i domalowac pancernik klasy Despoiler z poziomu "gaming-ready" na Gothicomp-ready :)
zastrzegam, że nie jest to skończona praca.
środa, 13 października 2010
Van Burren's Painting Report: Weathering of Ork Trukks
Van Burren here,
I finally managed to find the time to write up the report of my latest painting escapade. This time we will take a look at everyone's favorite four wheeled ramshackle box of exploding death, the Ork trukk.
I know that you all wish you had entire 5000 point armies painted to Golden Daemon standards, yet that not being the case, we have to make due with the skill AND time (there is never enough of it, is there?) we have. Thus, last time we concentrated on very general painting techniques that are quick and easy and give fairly good visual results for organic characters. This time around the report will focus on the quick AND easy weathering, for that touch of realism.
The trukk model is, unlike what you most non-orkers think, quite an elegant and complicated machine. The only mekanikal bitz that are missing is an operational engine to start zooming about for real (well, ok, I AM EXAGGERATING, but the detail put into the engine block, suspension and transmission is amazing). The only complaint I have is that you seldom get to see all this goodness as the trukks usually end up exploding before anyone has a chance to say "Oh, that's ne..!". On the other hand, the trukk has a lot of flat surfaces with mixed texturing. The flat surfaces make for good contrast to the machine bits and can be used to add a lot of personalization to the trukks. All in all, this is a really fun model to build, convert, and paint.
Strangely enough, the ork technology of the 40-first millennium is very close to ours, and so it is fitting to use our trukks as reference.
Ork Trukk circa 1996
Take a look at the picture above. Notice the rust all over the unpainted metal and eating away at the paint. Also of import is the dust on the sides of the tiers. For even more reference pictures just do an image search for truck + dirty + panties.
For my particular trukks I was aiming for the look of a WWII German half-track inbred with a garbage bin.
Let's get down to the painting table.
I started off by priming my trukks and adding a single coat of paint for, well, the paint.
Nothing special there. Next, I painted all the metallic parts with boltgun metal. Here comes the INTERESTING part: after the paint dries, I use a mix of 2/3 Tin Bitz and 1/3 Dark Flesh and a bunch of water to create a wash. This is my "rust" wash. Notice that we are going to apply it on bare boltgun metal. The question that we have to ask ourselves is w-h-e-r-e will the rustiest bits be and where we will have no rust.
Places where rust accumulates:
- Unpainted metal exposed to water
Places where metal is less likely to accumulate:
- Moving bits
- Hot bits
- Very dry bits
- Smokey bits
- Oiled bits
- Touchy bits (handles and some such)
Following this short guide and our reference pictures, we apply more-less-none of the wash to the metal bits on the model.
After the wash is completely dry I applied a black wash to the metal bits to add some cheap shading. At this step I also applied a wash to the painted parts using a mix of black and dark green. Once THAT dries, I used some mythril silver to highlight areas where the metal is more polished.
Places where the metal will be the shiniest are any areas that will be often rubbed by the orks. As they are not likely to be actually cleaning anything, these will only include the service areas. I also used it to add edge highlights to the rest of the metal, for the pop-effect. Look at the picture below and notice how I put my mythril where my mouth is :P
The next little step was to dry brush highlights on the Paint as well as adding some white edge highlights to emphasize the straight edges.
Once we have the paint (and whenever I say the paint, I mean the Paint) ready, it is time for some weathering on it.
Digressing....
Long, long time ago, in a land far away, there lived... Bolt and Rivet. Bolt and Rivet were laying happily in dump land when suddenly a big green tornado of teeth and wrenches took them far away. Where he screwed both of them. After the screwing, they were covered under a thick layer of icky paint. The Bolt and the Rivet thought that there life was over, as they were away from water and air, but it was not so. Soon enough they found themselves being jerked ... and vibrated... until they became loose and the paint cracked around Rivet. When that happened water seeped in between them and they started to ... oxidate.
To simulate this I went over all the screw heads under the paint and applied some rusting (you can use the same wash as before). Use as much as you want, just remember to highlight the bolt once you are done to create a nice contrasting effect.
Ok, time for another effect. But before we do that let's paint in some of the other details not related to weathering. Now. ... Mud. ... Orks love mud... it reminds them of childhood. To make mud I looked to my spice cabinet. Ground cinnamon! Looks good. Take the cinnamon (or any other fine powdery condiment) and mix it with white glue and the color of your own personal mud. The cinnamon will absorb it all and create a thick paste that you can now apply wherever mud naturally goes... which is everywhere. Take special "care" of places where the wheels are, where orks move about (yeah, they like mud), and any other spot that will have contact with the ground.
In this case it was the wheels, anything near the wheels, the ramming bit, the loading area, and the seats.... oh, wait, that's not mud.
Once all that is finished. We can add some dusting. A very fine wash applied sparingly bottom up on the vehicle. Dust accumulates everywhere but the closer to the ground, the more of it will be.
Although we are done, there are few more touches I want to show you.
Chipped paint. Using a sponge dabbed in black paint I rubbed it wherever the paint would come into contact with some scratchy bits and then painted the inside of the black with mythril, as can be seen on the next photo.
I used a toothbrush to add a spatter effect of muddy water on the sides of the truck and of a mark of an unfortunate road blocker on the front of the truck.
On the previous picture on the ram, and on the next one, on the wheels, check the mythril marks showing where the dirt/rust/poop/'umies got recently rubbed off.
Other interesting things to note:
Sooty engine block and exhausts.
Rubbed handles.
Rockets, being "disposable" do not show any aging.
Where did the other trukk go?
I hope all of this will be helpful to getting your weathering done in an hour or two (as opposed to leaving your model outside the window for a year).
Allright, that's it for now! May the emperor protect.
I finally managed to find the time to write up the report of my latest painting escapade. This time we will take a look at everyone's favorite four wheeled ramshackle box of exploding death, the Ork trukk.
I know that you all wish you had entire 5000 point armies painted to Golden Daemon standards, yet that not being the case, we have to make due with the skill AND time (there is never enough of it, is there?) we have. Thus, last time we concentrated on very general painting techniques that are quick and easy and give fairly good visual results for organic characters. This time around the report will focus on the quick AND easy weathering, for that touch of realism.
The trukk model is, unlike what you most non-orkers think, quite an elegant and complicated machine. The only mekanikal bitz that are missing is an operational engine to start zooming about for real (well, ok, I AM EXAGGERATING, but the detail put into the engine block, suspension and transmission is amazing). The only complaint I have is that you seldom get to see all this goodness as the trukks usually end up exploding before anyone has a chance to say "Oh, that's ne..!". On the other hand, the trukk has a lot of flat surfaces with mixed texturing. The flat surfaces make for good contrast to the machine bits and can be used to add a lot of personalization to the trukks. All in all, this is a really fun model to build, convert, and paint.
Strangely enough, the ork technology of the 40-first millennium is very close to ours, and so it is fitting to use our trukks as reference.
Ork Trukk circa 1996
Take a look at the picture above. Notice the rust all over the unpainted metal and eating away at the paint. Also of import is the dust on the sides of the tiers. For even more reference pictures just do an image search for truck + dirty + panties.
For my particular trukks I was aiming for the look of a WWII German half-track inbred with a garbage bin.
Let's get down to the painting table.
I started off by priming my trukks and adding a single coat of paint for, well, the paint.
Nothing special there. Next, I painted all the metallic parts with boltgun metal. Here comes the INTERESTING part: after the paint dries, I use a mix of 2/3 Tin Bitz and 1/3 Dark Flesh and a bunch of water to create a wash. This is my "rust" wash. Notice that we are going to apply it on bare boltgun metal. The question that we have to ask ourselves is w-h-e-r-e will the rustiest bits be and where we will have no rust.Places where rust accumulates:
- Unpainted metal exposed to water
Places where metal is less likely to accumulate:
- Moving bits
- Hot bits
- Very dry bits
- Smokey bits
- Oiled bits
- Touchy bits (handles and some such)
Following this short guide and our reference pictures, we apply more-less-none of the wash to the metal bits on the model.
After the wash is completely dry I applied a black wash to the metal bits to add some cheap shading. At this step I also applied a wash to the painted parts using a mix of black and dark green. Once THAT dries, I used some mythril silver to highlight areas where the metal is more polished.
Places where the metal will be the shiniest are any areas that will be often rubbed by the orks. As they are not likely to be actually cleaning anything, these will only include the service areas. I also used it to add edge highlights to the rest of the metal, for the pop-effect. Look at the picture below and notice how I put my mythril where my mouth is :P
The next little step was to dry brush highlights on the Paint as well as adding some white edge highlights to emphasize the straight edges.
Once we have the paint (and whenever I say the paint, I mean the Paint) ready, it is time for some weathering on it.Digressing....
Long, long time ago, in a land far away, there lived... Bolt and Rivet. Bolt and Rivet were laying happily in dump land when suddenly a big green tornado of teeth and wrenches took them far away. Where he screwed both of them. After the screwing, they were covered under a thick layer of icky paint. The Bolt and the Rivet thought that there life was over, as they were away from water and air, but it was not so. Soon enough they found themselves being jerked ... and vibrated... until they became loose and the paint cracked around Rivet. When that happened water seeped in between them and they started to ... oxidate.
To simulate this I went over all the screw heads under the paint and applied some rusting (you can use the same wash as before). Use as much as you want, just remember to highlight the bolt once you are done to create a nice contrasting effect.
Ok, time for another effect. But before we do that let's paint in some of the other details not related to weathering. Now. ... Mud. ... Orks love mud... it reminds them of childhood. To make mud I looked to my spice cabinet. Ground cinnamon! Looks good. Take the cinnamon (or any other fine powdery condiment) and mix it with white glue and the color of your own personal mud. The cinnamon will absorb it all and create a thick paste that you can now apply wherever mud naturally goes... which is everywhere. Take special "care" of places where the wheels are, where orks move about (yeah, they like mud), and any other spot that will have contact with the ground.In this case it was the wheels, anything near the wheels, the ramming bit, the loading area, and the seats.... oh, wait, that's not mud.
Once all that is finished. We can add some dusting. A very fine wash applied sparingly bottom up on the vehicle. Dust accumulates everywhere but the closer to the ground, the more of it will be.
Although we are done, there are few more touches I want to show you.Chipped paint. Using a sponge dabbed in black paint I rubbed it wherever the paint would come into contact with some scratchy bits and then painted the inside of the black with mythril, as can be seen on the next photo.
I used a toothbrush to add a spatter effect of muddy water on the sides of the truck and of a mark of an unfortunate road blocker on the front of the truck.
On the previous picture on the ram, and on the next one, on the wheels, check the mythril marks showing where the dirt/rust/poop/'umies got recently rubbed off.
Other interesting things to note:Sooty engine block and exhausts.
Rubbed handles.
Rockets, being "disposable" do not show any aging.
Where did the other trukk go?
I hope all of this will be helpful to getting your weathering done in an hour or two (as opposed to leaving your model outside the window for a year).
Allright, that's it for now! May the emperor protect.
wtorek, 31 sierpnia 2010
Painting Report: Ogryn 1996
Van Burren here,
My first time on this blog with a Painting Report!
First, let me start with giving a bit of background on me & painting:
I started painting miniatures back in 1996. That was when I got me a shiny box of second edition WH 40k and botched all the marine miniatures with a silver spray ... Having ruined all of the marines I only had the orks left, which I then started collecting and painting.
Due to life's unforeseen circumstances... and lack of a gamer group in my new town, I stopped painting in 1999. That was a sad time in my life....
In March 2009 when I got me a shiny box of 5th edition WH 40K and relived beautiful memories from my childhood, with the exception of raping my space marines with wall paint. And so I painted some more orks with a strong feeling of deja vu.
Apart from miniature painting I have doubled in digital art, REAL painting, lots of sketch work, murals, sculpting and all sorts of artsy stuff since I was ... hmmm I don't recall ever not doing any of that. I you could say I have a fairly strong background when it comes to paint. Also, I would like to mention I'm addicted to coolminiornot.
I do hope this is not going to be the last report of this kind... and I promise not to rant on the next one.
Anyyyyywayyyyyss, back to business.
Today I'm going to be painting (in a figurative sense) an Ogryn bone 'ead called Stefa, from 2nd edition (whom I managed to retrieve from the time-warp he was sitting in since 1999).
Those Ogryns were a bit different from the modern day ones. They had a bit more of an edge to them and less of a I-m-too-dumb-to-wipe-my-own-arse look on their faces.
Since he was already painted by me back in 1996 (... doesn't that sounds like a quote from "Back to the Future 3"?) I decided to simply enhance that paint job. So here is the first pic showing the ogryn with a new coat of paint.
I wish I had made a photo of him before I started painting, so you will have to use your imagination or x-ray vision to see what he looked like before.
The colors I used there were dwarf flesh, german cammo green, chaos black(weapon). All the remaining paint was there before.
First I started off with the gun using a technique I use from most inorganic objects. I added highlights with about 1/2 black 1/2 Enchanted Blue, then added edge highlights with 3/4 khaki 1/4 black, then added pure khaki extreme highlights, and some very extreme pure white highlights. This is not very fine blending and to tie the colors together I washed it with badab black ink. After it dried I redid some of the extreme highlights with a watered down white.
I do not like to spend a lot of time on guns and other menial equipment as I find it that it requires a lot of concentration to make blending on them look very good and for me it is not interesting enough to do spend time on it. The technique I used here did not take more than a few minutes and the result is satisfactory for anything other then competition entry or collector piece.
Next up I did the metallics on the gun. I undercoated it all with boltgun metal and then applied highlights with mithril silver, washed with badab black, and redid some mithril highlights. Sometimes I use a mix of white and mithril silver to do extreme edge highlights. Also notice that I painted the shells. Since I do not have a brass colored paint I based them with burnished gold, then washed with badab black and gryphon sepia, and at the end dry brushed some mythril silver.
This is my favorite part, painting the skin. I really enjoy painting the organic bits such as skin and fur as a more free and imprecise way of painting, such as mine, works to the benefit of such surfaces as they are never perfect in nature. The first thing I did was to gradually paint from dwarf flesh to white (off-white is an even better choice). I did this by putting a bit of white right next to dwarf flesh on the palette and mixing them in between, gradually adding more white to the mix. I usually do this by eye, but what I end up doing in the end, is painting around three to four progressive levels till I arrive to near-white.
Ok, we finished doing the gradient.... but it certainly does not look like skin! Oh, wait my friends, do not throw the first stone! We are only behind the first and least inventive step. What we need to do now is to add character. I've done this by adding things like a red nose (diluted blood red), swelling around the band-aid, eyes!, drybrushed hair, and redness on stressed joints using diluted red gore.
Now we are getting somewhere! Notice on that last picture that I also painted the combat blade. I used the same technique as the metal on the gun, and after that added weathering to both by washing them with a mix of strongly watered down tin bitz and dark flesh. Also, I added some dried blood smearing to the knife using a loose brush with only a little diluted red gore, it is better visible on the next pic.
As the flesh still looks way to fresh and baby like, I added a wash of very watered flesh-sepia-black to the whole skin area, making sure that the paint does not pool.
The clothing and leather were painted in a similar way to the gun. 1. Do three stages of highlights, 2. Wash with base color, 3. Re-do extreme highlights. For leather I used a bit more extreme highlight as leather tends to reflect light much better. I added another highlight to the skin mixing gloss varnish, white, and dwarf flesh to reinforce the highlights and add it a lively feel.
The 98% finished model looks like this:
And here are the pics of his buddies:
Allright, that's it for now! May the emperor protect.
My first time on this blog with a Painting Report!
First, let me start with giving a bit of background on me & painting:
I started painting miniatures back in 1996. That was when I got me a shiny box of second edition WH 40k and botched all the marine miniatures with a silver spray ... Having ruined all of the marines I only had the orks left, which I then started collecting and painting.
Due to life's unforeseen circumstances... and lack of a gamer group in my new town, I stopped painting in 1999. That was a sad time in my life....
In March 2009 when I got me a shiny box of 5th edition WH 40K and relived beautiful memories from my childhood, with the exception of raping my space marines with wall paint. And so I painted some more orks with a strong feeling of deja vu.
Apart from miniature painting I have doubled in digital art, REAL painting, lots of sketch work, murals, sculpting and all sorts of artsy stuff since I was ... hmmm I don't recall ever not doing any of that. I you could say I have a fairly strong background when it comes to paint. Also, I would like to mention I'm addicted to coolminiornot.
I do hope this is not going to be the last report of this kind... and I promise not to rant on the next one.
Anyyyyywayyyyyss, back to business.
Today I'm going to be painting (in a figurative sense) an Ogryn bone 'ead called Stefa, from 2nd edition (whom I managed to retrieve from the time-warp he was sitting in since 1999).
Those Ogryns were a bit different from the modern day ones. They had a bit more of an edge to them and less of a I-m-too-dumb-to-wipe-my-own-arse look on their faces.
Since he was already painted by me back in 1996 (... doesn't that sounds like a quote from "Back to the Future 3"?) I decided to simply enhance that paint job. So here is the first pic showing the ogryn with a new coat of paint.
I wish I had made a photo of him before I started painting, so you will have to use your imagination or x-ray vision to see what he looked like before.
The colors I used there were dwarf flesh, german cammo green, chaos black(weapon). All the remaining paint was there before.
First I started off with the gun using a technique I use from most inorganic objects. I added highlights with about 1/2 black 1/2 Enchanted Blue, then added edge highlights with 3/4 khaki 1/4 black, then added pure khaki extreme highlights, and some very extreme pure white highlights. This is not very fine blending and to tie the colors together I washed it with badab black ink. After it dried I redid some of the extreme highlights with a watered down white.
I do not like to spend a lot of time on guns and other menial equipment as I find it that it requires a lot of concentration to make blending on them look very good and for me it is not interesting enough to do spend time on it. The technique I used here did not take more than a few minutes and the result is satisfactory for anything other then competition entry or collector piece.Next up I did the metallics on the gun. I undercoated it all with boltgun metal and then applied highlights with mithril silver, washed with badab black, and redid some mithril highlights. Sometimes I use a mix of white and mithril silver to do extreme edge highlights. Also notice that I painted the shells. Since I do not have a brass colored paint I based them with burnished gold, then washed with badab black and gryphon sepia, and at the end dry brushed some mythril silver.
This is my favorite part, painting the skin. I really enjoy painting the organic bits such as skin and fur as a more free and imprecise way of painting, such as mine, works to the benefit of such surfaces as they are never perfect in nature. The first thing I did was to gradually paint from dwarf flesh to white (off-white is an even better choice). I did this by putting a bit of white right next to dwarf flesh on the palette and mixing them in between, gradually adding more white to the mix. I usually do this by eye, but what I end up doing in the end, is painting around three to four progressive levels till I arrive to near-white.
Ok, we finished doing the gradient.... but it certainly does not look like skin! Oh, wait my friends, do not throw the first stone! We are only behind the first and least inventive step. What we need to do now is to add character. I've done this by adding things like a red nose (diluted blood red), swelling around the band-aid, eyes!, drybrushed hair, and redness on stressed joints using diluted red gore.
Now we are getting somewhere! Notice on that last picture that I also painted the combat blade. I used the same technique as the metal on the gun, and after that added weathering to both by washing them with a mix of strongly watered down tin bitz and dark flesh. Also, I added some dried blood smearing to the knife using a loose brush with only a little diluted red gore, it is better visible on the next pic.
As the flesh still looks way to fresh and baby like, I added a wash of very watered flesh-sepia-black to the whole skin area, making sure that the paint does not pool.
The clothing and leather were painted in a similar way to the gun. 1. Do three stages of highlights, 2. Wash with base color, 3. Re-do extreme highlights. For leather I used a bit more extreme highlight as leather tends to reflect light much better. I added another highlight to the skin mixing gloss varnish, white, and dwarf flesh to reinforce the highlights and add it a lively feel.
The 98% finished model looks like this:
And here are the pics of his buddies:
Allright, that's it for now! May the emperor protect.poniedziałek, 30 sierpnia 2010
All Hands Battlestations!!! Chaos Fleet Detected
What daring! What outrageousness! What insolence! What arrogance!... I salute you.
-King Osric
Zdęcia mojej floty Chaosu- nie są jakieś mega świeże, ale wcześniej ich nie załadowałem.
Pic's of my Chaos Fleet- maybe not the newest ones, but still I haven't disclosed most of these ships on the blog:
Jednocześnie chciałem przypomniec dawny post Rantora, w którym dodał zbliżenia na statki swojej floty:
http://kgbwalkiria.blogspot.com/2010/07/armada-imperialna.html
Taking the opportunity, I just wanted to point out that Rantor has added more close-up's of his ships:
http://kgbwalkiria.blogspot.com/2010/07/armada-imperialna.html
-King Osric
Zdęcia mojej floty Chaosu- nie są jakieś mega świeże, ale wcześniej ich nie załadowałem.
Pic's of my Chaos Fleet- maybe not the newest ones, but still I haven't disclosed most of these ships on the blog:
Jednocześnie chciałem przypomniec dawny post Rantora, w którym dodał zbliżenia na statki swojej floty:
http://kgbwalkiria.blogspot.com/2010/07/armada-imperialna.html
Taking the opportunity, I just wanted to point out that Rantor has added more close-up's of his ships:
http://kgbwalkiria.blogspot.com/2010/07/armada-imperialna.html
wtorek, 24 sierpnia 2010
Tau
Chcę dziś pokazać jak wygląda moja armia Tau. Trochę czasu to trwało ale udało się mi wreszcie ją skończyć :)
Teraz dokładniejsze zdjęcia moich jednostek :
Teraz dokładniejsze zdjęcia moich jednostek :
SHAS'O R'MYR'S BATTLESUIT:
XV9:
XV89
HQ oraz gwardia honorowa:
Wieża:
Fire Warriors:
Dronki
Zwykłe:
Snajperki:
Heavy:
XV25 Stealth Suits:
Pathfinders:
Tetra:
Sky Ray :
Piranha:
Hammerheads:
Vespid Stingwings:
Jeszcze brak mi brodków ale to już nie długo:) Nie ma krootów ale to dla tego iż tworzę oddzielą armię i będzie pokazana nieco póżniej.
XV9:
XV89
HQ oraz gwardia honorowa:
Wieża:
Fire Warriors:
Dronki
Zwykłe:
Snajperki:
Heavy:
XV25 Stealth Suits:
Pathfinders:
Tetra:
Sky Ray :
Piranha:
Hammerheads:
Vespid Stingwings:
Jeszcze brak mi brodków ale to już nie długo:) Nie ma krootów ale to dla tego iż tworzę oddzielą armię i będzie pokazana nieco póżniej.
IG closing-in!!!
More pic's of my IG (actually the 3rd Invasion Corps).
Tym razem zbliżenia na moje IG, albo raczej 3 Korpus Inwazyjny:
Tym razem zbliżenia na moje IG, albo raczej 3 Korpus Inwazyjny:
Subskrybuj:
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